Aṣọ‑òkè, meaning “cloth of the uplands,” is one of the most iconic hand‑woven textiles of the Yoruba people of southwestern Nigeria, with origins dating back several centuries, and produced across regions such as Oyo, Ogun, Osun, Lagos, and Kwara states. Its production reflects an enduring cultural and economic heritage, connecting generations through traditional artisan knowledge, ceremonial use, and trade. The term aso‑òkè refers to cloth woven on narrow looms, known locally as ofi, producing long strips sewn together to create larger panels, and its use is closely linked to prestige and social identity in Yoruba society, particularly for ceremonial occasions.
EXPLORE NOW: Democratic Nigeria
Weaving Techniques and Materials
The production of aso‑òkè relies on hand‑loom weaving, with narrow‑strip looms forming the core technology. Skilled artisans manually warp threads, manipulate heddles, and produce narrow strips that are later joined into larger cloths for garments. Traditionally, cotton was the primary material, grown and spun locally, and sometimes combined with wild silk, while contemporary practices also incorporate industrial yarns such as rayon and metallic threads for decorative effects.
The dyeing and preparation of yarn is integral to the craft, influencing both pattern and quality. Indigo, natural reds, and other plant-based dyes historically provided colour, while modern weavers may supplement these with synthetic pigments. The combination of material selection, weaving technique, and pattern design contributes to the uniqueness and cultural value of each cloth.
Regional Centres of Production
Iseyin, in Oyo State, is historically the principal centre for aso‑òkè production, and the town’s economy and cultural identity are closely tied to weaving. Artisans here maintain traditional methods, producing cloth for local consumption and ceremonial purposes, and the town has remained a hub for training new generations of weavers.
Other towns, including Oyo, Ibadan, Ilorin, and Osogbo, have developed distinctive weaving traditions, each with local pattern variations, colour preferences, and ceremonial specialisations. These centres demonstrate the geographic and stylistic diversity within Yoruba textile production, while maintaining the unifying characteristic of narrow-strip weaving.
Cultural Significance and Uses
Aṣọ‑òkè is primarily a ceremonial cloth, worn for weddings, funerals, naming ceremonies, festivals, and chieftaincy events. It signifies social status, cultural affiliation, and personal or family prestige. Different types of aso‑òkè carry symbolic meaning, such as Etu, typically deep indigo with subtle stripes, Sanyan made from wild silk, and Alaari incorporating red or magenta hues, each associated with specific social or ceremonial contexts.
Clothing made from aso‑òkè includes wrappers (iro), blouses (bùbá), head‑ties (gèlè), and men’s robes (agbádá), each reflecting ceremonial function and personal or community identity. Cloths are often given as gifts during important life events, further embedding the textile in social and ritual practice.
Gender Roles and Craft Practice
Historically, weaving on narrow-strip looms in Yoruba society was predominantly a male activity due to the physical demands of the looms and the technical skills required. Women contributed through cotton preparation, spinning, dyeing, and in some communities, weaving on alternative loom types. Contemporary practices show increased female participation in weaving, reflecting evolving gender roles and the adaptation of traditional crafts to modern social dynamics.
This blend of gendered responsibilities ensures continuity of weaving knowledge, and women today play a visible role in sustaining aso‑òkè production, teaching new artisans, and incorporating innovative designs while maintaining traditional methods.
Economic and Social Dynamics
Aṣọ‑òkè production has historically contributed to local economies, supporting livelihoods of weavers, dyers, spinners, and traders. Cloths were valued for local trade, market exchange, and as symbols of wealth. During the colonial era, imported textiles created competition, leading hand-woven cloth to become primarily ceremonial. This economic shift reinforced aso‑òkè’s status as a symbol of culture and prestige, rather than everyday wear.
Despite market pressures, weaving persists as a cultural enterprise, with festivals, exhibitions, and fashion shows promoting the craft in urban centres and in the Yoruba diaspora. This continuity demonstrates the resilience of traditional textiles in Nigeria’s socio-economic landscape.
Colonial and Modern Influence
Colonial economic policies introduced imported European textiles, affecting demand for hand-woven cloth. Industrially produced textiles were cheaper and widely available, reducing the economic incentive for local production. However, the ceremonial and symbolic value of aso‑òkè ensured its survival, particularly in weddings, festivals, and chieftaincy events.
Modern revival efforts focus on integrating traditional weaving into contemporary fashion, encouraging sustainability, and preserving craft knowledge through artisan training and cultural promotion, both in Nigeria and internationally.
Aṣọ‑òkè exemplifies the integration of craft, culture, and community in Yoruba society. Its narrow-strip weaving, symbolic patterns, and ceremonial uses reflect centuries of tradition, evolving gender roles, and adaptation to social and economic change. The textile remains a living heritage, connecting past practices with contemporary identity, cultural expression, and economic livelihoods.
READ MORE: Ancient & Pre-Colonial Nigeria
Author’s Note
Aṣọ‑òkè represents the resilience of Yoruba hand-woven textiles, bridging centuries of tradition with modern expression. Its continued practice preserves cultural knowledge, artistic skill, and social identity, ensuring that this heritage remains integral to Nigeria’s historical and cultural narrative.
References
Aso Oke: Nigerian Yoruba’s colourful ceremonial fabric, Anadolu Agency.
Beyond Gendered Art Practice: Contemporary Women Weavers in Oke-Ogun, Lagos Notes and Records.
